In the 17th century, Shakespeare referred to the dangerous practice of collecting rock samphire from cliffs. "Half-way down, Hangs one that gathers samphire; dreadful trade!" In the 19th Century samphire was being shipped in casks of seawater from the Isle of Wight to market in London at the end of May each year. Rock samphire used to be cried in London streets as "Crest Marine".

Rock samphire has fleshy, divided aromatic leaves that Culpepper described as having a "pleasant, hot and spicy taste", a gross understatement. With 30 times more vitamin C than oranges, it makes a healthy start to the day with a boiled egg for breakfast. Or try on the side of some gammon: make rock samphire hash -a delicious recipe involving capers, lemon, egg and rock samphire.